Tuesday 3 September 2013

I finally made it to Vienna

I finally made it to Vienna in the middle of August.
This was my first time to a city that I had been itching to go for ages but somehow fate always seemed to intervene.
But my frieghbor ( half friend, half neighbor ) in London invited me to stay with them for a few days at their home in Vienna so I gladly accepted.

They have a lovely terrace with the most amazing view of Vienna. 
That's the city hall with the Wien 
( Vienna in German ) banner hanging from it.


Paris, London, and Rome have their own distinct branding but 
Vienna doesn't seem to have one so I didn't have an image in my head of what to expect as people have of the 
Eiffel Tower or the Colosseum for example.

Vienna is the former capital of the Hapsburgs, one of the ancient royal families who also were Holy Roman Emperors along with their other kingdoms spread over central Europe.  

I was so very lucky when my host had arranged a private tour to the  government offices at the Hofburg Palace, the former Viennese home to the Hapsburgs and now the office and official residence of the President.  This section opens one day a year but the other sections of the palace are open year round.


I didn't mind the bits of scaffolding and the computer screen as they are working offices. See the adjoining office chair?

 This is still the official reception for visiting dignitaries as it has always been.
The cornicing was so tasteful unlike the ones at Buckingham Palace.
That big white thing in the corner is a ceramic radiator that kept the rooms warm in the winter. I would love something like that instead of the modern versions.
That is our little group in front of this clock below that was placed in front of the mirror. But do you notice that it is inverse?
That's because the respective emperor had their bed next to it and would look into that mirror to tell the time. 
The original floors still as beautiful as the day they were installed.
( I take home decor inspiration anywhere I can.)
Ivory portraits of the Hapsburgs that normally have blinds to conserve the delicate artwork.
Yet with a history steeped with the fortunes of the Hapsburgs,
since the first world war all aristocrats and royal titles have been abolished and the most prestigious title legally allowed is Doctor
England really is a land of titles because even people in the East end of London get called Guv'nah willy nilly.
A modern spartan apartment block typical of the Red Vienna period



There are architectural reflections of the period between 
1918 - 1934 just after the abolition of the monarchy
 referred to as Red Vienna.

For architecture buffs out there, Vienna is the place to go.


It has traces of differing architectural styles but the best representative of the Art Nouveau movement anywhere in the world.
The Vienna Secession building
The inscription says, To every age its art, To art its freedom
The one below is one of my all time favorite buildings.
How I would love to rent a flat there for a month although then I wouldn't get to look at it so I would love to rent a flat across it.
This is it - the Wagner building which is a block of flats.
This is the view straight out of the train station.
Normally the white building next door would get kudos but it just seems rather ordinary compared to the Wagner block.
Can you tell I really like it?
The location is superb being a few blocks away from the 
Cafe Museum designed by the famous architect Adolf Loos.
The cafe opened in 1899 and the interior was groundbreaking for the time and still is a meeting place for artists.
The Viennese take their cafes even more seriously than the Parisians and have much better quality and range of coffee.
Every cafe I went to had a huge range of reading material.
It is through the importance of cafe culture that arose the art of lounging in comfortable and stylish chairs such  as the ones from Thonet.
They are a firm favorite and very collectible item quite synonymous with Viennese style.


If not, drop what you are doing right now and get the book.
It was one of my favorite books of the last decade.
For those of you who have read it, here is the Palais Ephrussi.
I thought it quite poignant that the building is now the offices for Casino Austria.  How apt that its headquarters are the home of one of the wealthiest families in Europe who lost most of their fortune.
To the rear of the building, there was a Starbucks...
I wonder what room that used to be - the servant's quarters?

This was the front door that had seen many events.

I visited Schonbrunn Palace which was the summer residence of the Hapsburgs.
Via

This edifice needs to be seen and properly explained because it is the little touches that make this palace as most homes special.

Picture taking is banned inside the palace so I had to rely on internet pictures to give you a glimpse of the elegance and level of workmanship of this palace.

This room is the Porcelain Room.
Via
The quality of the pictures is disappointing and so I am doubling up to give you a better idea.

But this is one of the most impressive rooms I have ever seen.
Blue and white chinoiserie at its very best.
Via
What you have to know is that the Hapsburgs didn't just tell the builders what they wanted but they were involved in the first and poshest DIY projects you have ever seen.
The prints on the wall were all drawn and copied after Boucher and Pillemont. 

Via
But Emperor Franz and a few of his talented children drew them freehand!  The pictures up close were of such a superb level that I couldn't believe that they were done my amateurs let alone members of the family.  But they wanted their own touch and they also put some of the family members into the drawings for fun.

Below is the Millions Room called that because an incredible amount of money went into the decoration.  
Via
Once again, 
all the images with gilt framing were cut out and scrap booked by the children of Empress Maria Theresa, one of the daughters being the infamous Marie Antoinette.

The room below was called the Miniatures Room.
It seems almost normal now that once again the member of the Hapsburg family drew all the family portraits and were involved in the decoration and stitching of the curtains.
Via
There are so many amazing rooms to view but 
for those of you not planning to visit anytime soon please click here for a tour of the palace.

Sometimes the marriage of contrasts result in what made Vienna such a vibrant and ground breaking city in all aspects at the turn of the 20th century.

There was a thriving Jewish community that was very much part of the mainstream society in Vienna until WW1.  
What must have resulted from an intrinsic Jewish inclination to question existence coupled with the Catholic custom of confessions surely was psychotherapy. 
 
Vienna was the birthplace of this relatively new science and 
Freud one of its founders.
This was the building that housed his home and office.
The foyer leading up to his studio.
The lovely window looking out onto the courtyard just before the front door and Freud's front door where many patients must have waited nervously.



Freud's cane and hat still at the foyer and the waiting room intact.


Vienna was voted the second most livable city in the world recently.
As a former Melbournian whose city was voted #1, 
I can see why it ranks so high.
Views of the Blue Danube
I was invited to my host's friend's most lovely home which was still within the city limits.
Most lovely homes are the same as another but I was surprised that having vineyards next door was not considered to be the countryside.

Austrian wine is still very much underrated and Vienna boasts some great producers.  There is a local Viennese institution equivalent to a wine pub called heurigers
They sell the most local recent vintages with simple food.
We went to a heuriger in the 19th district of Vienna that 
had origins from 1642.




We started with a traditional Austrian bar snack of kaiser rolls and a cheese dip called liptauer.
Don't even ask me what I am having at an Austrian restaurant. 
It is always going to be a schnitzel!
I couldn't go to Vienna and not have a Sacher torte 
at the Sacher Hotel.




A tip from the locals was not to have a slice of the torte 
but ask for the Sacher cube.
Much more moist and more chocolate.
This city is a must see and don't wait as long as I did to visit if you haven't already!

51 comments:

  1. Just gorgeous! I've also wanted to go for ages. I just saw the Sound of Music for the first time and I think a Salzburg-Vienna trip needs to be scheduled. My father-in-law grew up in Vienna and had to escape with his family in 1938, they had a large house just outside the city, we have pictures of it on the bookplates they used, this is why I always say my husband is "from the castle"!!
    Thanks for sharing your trip Naomi!

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    1. One of my next planned trips is to Salzburg. Austria is my new pet project for sure. It would make a great family trip and so interesting to trace family roots. Unfortunately quite a few people were in the same position. There is a lot of yearning from the Viennese that certain things never happened as Vienna would surely be even more of a powerhouse city now. But please book your trip soon!

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    2. Dani - did I ever ask you if you've read the Hare with the Golden Eye?

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  2. Looks like an amazing place. Vienna is one of the few European cities I haven't visited and I think I really need to go there.

    I love the homely yet magnificent aspect of all the crafting projects at the palace.

    As for that Sacher cube, wow!

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    1. Vienna seems to be always one of the last cities visited in Europe and I think it is partly due to PR. But it is such a shame because it is culturally as rich as Paris and Madrid. The crafting projects in the palace were out of this world and I have a whole new respect for the Hapsburgs for it!

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  3. What memories flood back!!... we visited Vienna last year and I adored this city! I can still taste the Sacher Torte and Cafe Demel was also a highlight. Thank you for the tour of the Palace... adored the Blue and White room .... Did you see the Lipizaner horses? xx

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    1. Isn't it just such a delightful city? The cube really is a vast improvement on the slice bc I never liked it before i had the cube. The blue and white room is one I will copy when I have no decor budget :) But alas I didn't see the horses but am saving it for my next time in Vienna - can't wait! xx

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    2. I honestly cannot wait to see Vienna properly too.... I bought a beautiful cape there which always will remind me of my visit. Forgot to tell you how lovely your photos are! xx

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    3. The good ones aren't mine ;) but cape pics bitte? X

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  4. Thank you so much for this delightful post!

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    1. It was a pleasure reminiscing writing it, thanks for dropping by :)

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  5. You travel as much as I shop, and that's a lot. I've never visited Vienna, but the problem with reading blogs is that places I wasn't particularly interested in visiting becomes part of my list of 'places to visit' - the list is terribly long now!

    It does look beautiful. I'm not an architecture buff, but as the years have gone by I have come to appreciate striking architecture more and more. I found Genoa was great for this on my recent travels!

    Liptauer - looks.....interesting ha xx

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    1. What? You shop way more than I travel! Yes sometimes I find myself browsing clothes on net a porter or j crew when I never really did much before. I really liked Genoa in an odd way so I look forward to your post on it. One of these days I should make you do one of those food challenges as they do on I'm a celebrity ;p Liptauer is delicious xx

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    2. Deal re. the food challenge; but no Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Lebanese, Spanish, Greek, Mexican, French or African cuisine, unless I'm with you lol x

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    3. Right then - you and me are going to a German/Bulgarian/Korean/Indonesian/Malaysian buffet!! x

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    4. I just had a mini panic attack! x

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    5. Hahahaha...love this thread...CSW and I will eat anything, so Colleen, you better do a detox before and detox after because it'll be a mental gastronomic experience should I be allowed to join the 2 of you!

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  6. My brother went to school in Austria and I always envied him after hearing his tales. It looks quite beautiful.

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    1. I would have loved to do that as well but my German is nil.

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  7. Looks like a great trip. I visited Austria several years ago. I had sacher torte at sacha cafe, ate schnitzel, and did some Austrian twirls in the Hills. But the thing that has stuck with me most is the story about Sisi. Particularly- her dedication to her beauty regime...

    Interesting that the most prestigious title is Dr. Don't they have professors there?

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    1. Argh, I forgot to twirl all this time but that might have to wait until Salzburg...Yes Sisi was a character. Funny - for some reason the highest title is Dr Dr! No not a typo that is two doctors...

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  8. Thank you for posting these photos! Vienna looks stunning. I can't believe all that art work in the palaces you visited, it is awe-inspiring!! I would love to try the Sacher torte one day, as well as the cube, which looks so delicious.

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    1. I think there is a lot of legend about the Sacher but the cube is sooo much better than the cake which tends to be dry and I finally could taste the fruit inside. The palaces were the best of its kind around in the world dare I say...

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  9. Naomi, Love seeing Vienna! It's on my list for sure. So much culture and I love the cafe! That building was fabulous too. I had no idea about the Sacher Torte being from there! Really interesting.I hope I get to sample that and some schnitzel one day.

    xxKim

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    1. Next trip to Europe just has to be Austria Kim!! The place as everything from culture to sheer physical beauty. It is a sleeper but then being voted always in the top five cities to live in the world has raised the profile a bit. Schnitzel is the best :)x

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  10. Wow it's never been on my radar but looks so bloody interesting. I need to go. Meadow would touch everything and get us thrown out of the Palace.
    Loving the radiator. Business idea. Right there!!!!

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    1. Well that's the thing - Vienna seems to be very under the radar and they need to brand a bit more. But I think Meadow would be able to charm her way out of any trouble! Oh yes - ceramic corniced heaters is something I would get for sure :)

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  11. Wow! The Chinoiserie is amazing! Thank for the pics and words!
    J is half Austiran, so we often go to visit his father there. He lives in a village called St Gilgen, on the Wolfgang See, just outside of Salzburg. It's the most beautiful place!
    However, even having been there so many times, we.ve never made it to Vienna.
    These pics make me determined to go there next time we got to Austria.

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    1. Isn't it incredible? I stood there for thirty minutes in awe. I am so gearing to go to Salzburg... But you would love Vienna, such a great balance and ease of life. I would move there if I spoke German!

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  12. Oh, and I have to add that Austrian Kachel Ofen (those posh radiators) are bloody amazing.

    There's one in the local pub up the mountain in J's Dad's village that looks just like a Dalek! I will post a pic of it on my blog so you can see!

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    1. Thanks for the word but now I googled it and they are sooo expensive. One starts at 15k but it does last 500 yrs o...please do a post on it and the countryside there x

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  13. Naomi - this is awesome - Vienna is on my list for sure!

    That radiator looks like a wedding cake! did you feel your troubles lessen when you were in Freud's office or multiple? :-)

    imagine having one's office in that kind of place - I wouldn't get anything done!

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    1. The Freud museum was the one place English was the most spoken language which was amusing o me! But it's interesting how people make it a must see like it was or me! You would love the street style of omen here by the way. Different from Paris but very together!

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  14. Love this post - I put Austria on my list for our next trip to Europe (which may be early next year... fingers crossed). I last visited when I was 4, so I think I'd have a new appreciation for it....for all the reasons you highlighted, but particularly the art and architecture.
    Love the palaces, and how lucky were you to have such access with your freighbour.
    I love the Hare with Amber Eyes, but there's also an Australian book "Good Living Street" which was written by a Jewish refugee descendant about his families wealthy past - they came out to Australia with a Klimt amongst other treasures (which they tried to donate to the Art Gallery of New South Wales in the early 70's late 60's, and they rejected it!!!). Definitely worth a read if you're interested in that period of the Secession. xx ps book arrived!! Have put a thank you note in the mail

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  15. I hope you get to go next year! I think your views on the buildings will be rather different this time around! It is such an all rounder type of place and the food is really good! Thanks or the tip and I will read it for sure. But so tragic they said no to a Klimt! Oy vey! You shouldn't have sent a note! You're already do busy but I'm relieved you got it bc I was getting nervous xx

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    1. Oh the post from the UK is taking ages at the moment for some reason. I ordered a book online and it took 3 months supposedly air mail. I'd given up hope it was going to arrive (the Mary Delaney one). I couldn't not send you a thank you note! It;s a bit messy though as I wrote it while I was waiting to pick up kids from school, so on my lap!!
      I think the Klimt ended up in London in the National Gallery after being sold at auction (and not getting that spectacular an amount of money - they went up quite spectacularly around 10-15 years later). You should definitely read the book, not so poetically written as The Hare, but completely fascinating (and well written in its own right). xx

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    2. I think your card is going to be prettier than the note I scribbled on the envelope!! But it is on my group batch of orders of books I said I wouldn't buy anymore. I can't always wait for the library...Those auction stories kill me - DM is great for those stories about someone who bought for ten quid and it was a real caravaggio :)

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  16. I wish I had frieghbors to invite me to Vienna, although when I got there I would probably collapse from sensory overload. It's all so gorgeous and beautiful and delicious and so different from my city at the moment. I did feel a little bit 'at home' when I saw the graffiti on the building in Red Vienna :)

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    1. ah yes - the promise of the party behind the graffiti is always enticing!!

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  17. Wow, what an amazing trip. And so lucky to tour the offices at the Palace! Thanks for sharing your lovely photos.

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    1. It was a lovely city break and I wish I could go and explore some more!

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  18. Palace envy!!! I'll lend you my Circuit 24 Faubourg in blue in exchange for a private tour at the Hofburg :D I can see you also love Wagner building. I think that's just right outside Kettenbruckengasse off Naschmarkt. I love kaiser rolls (even the name) and that's all I had for breakfast at the hotel. No, 3 of that plus something else every morning :) I'm just not really into Sacher Torte. I find it sour. Sorry but I was secretly yearning for a devil's food cake while eating it. But I'll have a schnitzel anytime. Great to know you had a lovely time in Vienna xxx

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    1. Oh I need to broker that deal soon! Yes it was by the nightmarket which I didn't have time for and will save for next time. It's funny bc I understand what you mean about the sacher but it really is better in the cube version although devil's food does beat it! xx

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  19. Your friends certainly have a wonderful view and you were fortunate to have the chance to tour the government offices - certainly a glamorous place to work! The interiors of the summer residence are very impressive with the many decorative details and those stunning original floors. Schitzel and sachertorte are always hard for me to resist too. I read the list about the desirable places to live - really interesting.

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    1. They really do have a fab location and were too kind to organize such a tour. Austrian food is rather underrated I think...But I can vouch that it really is such a civilized city and easier to live in that London for sure!

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  20. Thank you, thank you very much. I mentioned somewhere, that Vienna is a place I´d like to visit.
    Having read your post, 50% of my trip is done, without expenses.
    I associate Vienna with cake ( s ), chocolate + whipped cream.
    Austria with Wolford tights = the best ever.
    Naturally the Thonet chair ( s ), light and airy.
    Btw., Helsinki was rated 8 th on the list you mentioned, and we are waiting our very first Starbucks to open ; )!

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    1. Hehe - vicarious travels are sometimes better because you don't have to line up at the airport right? Yes there is plenty of whipped cream available and wolford tights are truly the best! I need to get to Helsinki so I can compare the livable cities :)

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  21. You know I read every post but never reply but thank you for writing all of this.... I'm loving keeping up with your travels, I may be at home with the kids but I feel like I too can journey to these amazing places when I read them!

    x

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    1. Thank you Anna, I understand that not many people like to comment but I do appreciate your words very much! x

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  22. You get around a lot!! I love Vienna! Sadly my friend (who I used to stay with) no longer lives in the city so I haven't visited since 2007. Your photos make me want to go back...maybe my next side trip when I go back and visit my family in the UK?

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    1. I love Vienna now too! I need to go back as I feel I only scratched the surface...yes you need to pack as much in as possible when you come to Europe! X

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Thank you for dropping by!